in Tornatore, S. ed. Fragments of raffia fibre cloth that may have been woven on this kind of loom uncovered at Igbo Ukwu in southeast Nigeria were dated to the C9th AD. “The Decline of Women’s Weaving Among the North-east Yoruba” in Textile History 23. Here I will gather a curated selection of early and otherwise significant examples, drawn both from museum collections and our archive at Adire African Textiles. Akwete Igbo women weavers then produced similar designs, although they are clearly distinguishable by the wider panels woven. Finger weaving is a basic weaving technique that doesn’t require any equipment. Today, we wish to present you Yoruba Didi hairstyles. Spinning complete, the yarn is dyed with vegetable dyes made from: kola nut for yellow, camwood for red, mango bark for beige and vitrex grandiflora for black. Some mid century aso oke cloths I collected recently in Nigeria, available now from adireafricantextiles.com. Nupe Crafts: the Dynamics of Change in Nineteenth and Twentieth Century Weaving and Brass Working (PhD thesis, University of Indiana) From shop HeddleAndLamm. Murray, K. 1936. & Gardi, B. eds. Lamb, V. & Holmes, J. & Okeke, C. 1985. In the C16th and later Portuguese slave traders bought huge numbers of indigo dyed cloths woven on these looms from the Ijebu and Benin for sale in Congo, Gold Coast and even Brazil. Wrapper, mens, narrow-band weaving, cotton with rayon supplementary weft, handwoven by a Yoruba male, Ilorin, Western Nigeria, 1950-1966 Handwoven cloth from Ilorin in Yoruba, Western Nigeria. Yoruba weaving: Abstract: The Yoruba are known for their craftsmanship most especially in the weaving of home made traditional cloths. “Women’s Weaving: the Manufacture and Use of Textiles Among the Igbirra People of Nigeria.” in Idiens, D. & Ponting, K. 1980. Among the textiles they wove in the past are elaborate marriage cloths known as “duna”, and some beautiful predominantly red wrapper cloths. Kente cloth could be viewed as a visual representation of the people’s history, philosophy, ethics, oral literature, religious belief, social values and political thought. Until very recently the double-heddle narrow strip loom was used only by men, as were certain types of single heddle loom, such as ground looms and Central African raffia looms. Bida was once the capital of a Fulani-ruled emirate renowned in West Africa for its craft-works, which include decorative brass casting, embroidery, and glass bead making, as well as both men’s and women’s weaving. It is unlike the typical cloth-making factory, which is equipped with machines to take the stress off the apprentice. Hand spun cotton. There are still a relatively large number of women using these looms in the Ebira town of Okene, the Nupe capital Bida, and in Hausa cities, particularly Kano. The cloth weaving centres were concentrated in central and northern Yorubaland in places such as Akoko, Owo, Ekiti, Ondo, Osogbo, Ibadan, Iseyin, Oyo and Ilorin divisions. Among the central Oyo Yoruba and in northern Nigeria women’s weaving overlapped with that of men using the double-heddle loom, but in other districts, in particular among the Igbo in eastern Nigeria women were the only weavers. Alongside a lot of very obscure and localised traditions of cloth decoration, they wove fine indigo wrappers from hand-spun cotton. [includes discussion of Yoruba weaving and cloth dyeing] Gilfoy, Peggy Stoltz. Instead large numbers of women wove predominantly indigo-dyed wrapper cloths, both for domestic use and for trade. Nupe woman weaving in her home in the central Nigerian town of Bida, 1995. Figurative designs on early aso oke are extremely rare. Renne, E. 1992. It is famous throughout eastern Nigeria for the quality of the cloths produced there which are highly prized for the Igbo women’s ceremonial dress known as “Up and Down”, in which two cloths are wrapped around the body, one at the waist, the other under the arms. Ise Aso Ofi Nile Yoruba (Cloth Weaving) samueldpoetry Asa Yoruba , ise aso ofi , Yoruba culture No comments : Orisirisi ise ni o wa lawujo Yoruba; nitori iba meji ko, bi ko se pe Yoruba korira iwa ole ati iwa imele sise. The Yoruba cloth manufacturers enjoy the occupational satisfaction in cotton growing, dyeing, spinning, weaving and fabric embellishments, and are all together dedicated in demonstration of skills. Aso Oke (pronounced ah-SHOW-kay) is short for Aso Ilu Oke which literally interpreted means clothes from the countryside. “Women’s weaving among the Yorubas of Omu-aran in Ilorin Province” in Nigerian Field 5 Djerma Cloth and Hausa Cloth (Niger, Nigeria) Djerma Cloth and Hausa Cloth are made from four to eight inch wide strips. We work with a network of partners throughout West Africa to source exceptional museum quality textiles for clients worldwide that include leading museums, private collectors, and interior designers. A big difference with other weaving methods is that you won’t need separate weft and warp threads since the threads will function as … Aronson, L. 1980. Weaving Tradition in Igboland Textiles of Africa To th… “Use of Traditional Textiles Among the Aniocha Igbo of Mid-western Nigeria” in Idiens, D. & Ponting, K. 1980. In the years since the 1950s this kind of weaving has declined drastically in both the Yoruba and Igbo speaking regions of Nigeria, partly because it is an extremely slow and laborious process, but also because women now have wider opportunities for trading, education and other careers. Also known as Àwon omo (which literarily means ‘The Children of Yoruba), the Yoruba tribe reportedly constitute over 40 million people generally, including those in Southern and Central Benin.In Nigeria, this wonderful tribe boasts 21% of the population, making them a major tribe and one of the largest ethnic groups in the Western Africa country.The Yoruba are surrounded by some minor ethnic groups in Nigeria as well as in Benin. (5) And over his shoulder were draped strips of various types of cloth and fabric. The Yoruba are famous for Aso-Oke traditional fabric weaving. Aso oke is the strip woven cloth tradition of (until recently) male weavers in the Yoruba speaking region of South western Nigeria. With weaving the picture is more complex. It is a cloth worn by people of high social status in the olden … highlight cloth-weaving traditions done by women in specific Yoruba towns include the studies of Murray (1936), Clarke (1938), Bray (1968), Poynor (1980) and Renne (1995), amongst others. Ijebu-Ode: The capital of the ancient Yoruba speaking kingdom of Ijebu, its women weavers produce a distinctive style of highly ornate cloth known as aso olona, cloth with decorations or art. FUNCTIONS OF YORUBA WOMEN’S HAND-WOVEN TEXTILES Yoruba women’s hand-woven cloth was produced in large strips which Lamb Here’s how cloth weaving started with the Yoruba people. Tues – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Here I will gather a curated selection of early and otherwise significant examples, drawn both from museum collections and our archive at Adire African Textiles, Africa | Wrapper / shawl from the Yoruba people of Nigeria | Silk and cotton. 1983. The Igbo also are known widely for Akwete-cloth weaving which is basically done by women. Detail: Yoruba aso oke woman's wrapper cloth, circa 1900. It is a hand woven cloth made mostly by the Yoruba tribe of south west Nigeria. Northern Edo: the Northern or Akoko Edo are a culturally diverse range of peoples living in small villages to the south and west of the town of Okene. Exeter, UK: Exeter City Museums. Patterns of life: West African strip-weaving … How Aso-Oke Cloth Weaving Industry Began. 1980. “We weave it:” Akwete Weavers, their patrons, and Innovation in a Global Economy. Renne, E. 1992. Picton J. Poyner, R. 1980. The all silk strips with narrow float patterns in the weft are also a rare feature. The Yoruba in Nigeria reserved this cloth for funerals, religious rituals, and other formal occasions. Cloth production entails a division of labour. Clothing in Yoruba culture is gender sensitive: males and females wear different designs. Private collection, London. & Mack J. African Textiles (1989, 2nd Edition) It matches the cloth one of the magi figures … Kevin Carroll was at the Catholic Mission. Yoruba is first race to develop concept of cloth weaving in the world —Ooni - Tribune NewsPaper - Madailygist Yoruba Aso Oke Textile Cotton Cloth Yellow Nigeria Africa Art: Type of Object: Textile: Country of Origin: Nigeria: People: Yoruba: Materials: Cotton, rayon: Approximate Age: 20th century: Height (in) 56: Width (in) 42: Overall Condition: Fair to good. Further Reading: Kriger, C. 1993. Die lara won ni ise agbe, aso hihun, aso didi, ode sise, ise akewi, ilu lilu, agbede, ati bee lo. This C19th example, now in the Musee du Quai Branly, Paris, has weft float motifs representing horses woven in silk on a hand spun cotton ground. Today there is very little weaving in the area, with perhaps one or two elderly ladies still active in each area. Man Does Not Go Naked Women spin the weaving fibres from cotton, wool and local silk (anaphe infracta or anaphe moloyeni moth). Both male and female have different types and it is an aberration then for a man to wear a woman’s clothes and vice versa. Yoruba aso oke woman's wrapper cloth, circa 1900. rare mixed strip design, hand spun indigo dyed cotton and magenta silk. “History of Cloth Trade in the Niger Delta: a study of diffusion.” in Idiens, D. & Ponting, K. 1980. Eastern Yoruba: Among Yoruba and Yoruba related peoples such as the Igbomina, Ekiti, Yagba, and Bunu, there was relatively little of the male narrow strip aso oke weaving (which was primarily associated with the Oyo Yoruba.) For instance, cloth weaving is commonly practiced by people in Abia State, Kogi State, Okene and popular Yoruba cities like Ibadan, Abeokuta, Oshogbo, and Ile-Ife. The fibres used for weaving are either locally sourced or brought from neighboring states (northern parts of the country). “Ijebu Yoruba Aso Olona” in African Arts 25 In the C19th the north eastern Yoruba and their neighbours wove large quantities of cloths which were traded to the north. They have Aso ibile, the traditional clothes of various types and shades. Detail: Figurative designs on early Yoruba aso oke are extremely rare. Cloth that does not die: the meaning of cloth in Bunu social life. 1980. In the south of Nigeria it only survives today on a very small scale in a few areas where local specialisations are still in demand, notably in the Yoruba town of Ijebu-Ode, and far to the east in the Igbo village of Akwete. Perani, J. It is a particular interest on mine at the moment and we are encountering numerous previously unrecorded local styles as we reach new areas. Text by Len Pole. Fragments: mostly C19th silk and indigo Yoruba aso oke cloth. In sub-Saharan Africa sculptors in wood and metal were almost invariably male, while in most but not all areas potters were women. The fibres used for weaving are either locally sourced or brought from neighboring states (northern parts of the country) Oni figure. Borgatti, J. virgin hair, 7a grade, free shipping, good quality human hair weaves.Plastic plaiting threads: used for variations of both braiding and weaving.The Traditional Significance of.Traditional Yoruba Hairstyles.I used to wear my hair, in a stick-up ponytail, with two braids on the side.Soultrain inspired me. Of these centres Ilorin, Iseyin (the two most prolific centres of narrow strip weaving among the Yoruba) and Owo appear to … Apr 5, 2014 - Backed Yoruba men's weave from Oye Ekiti, 1951 or 52, when Fr. This C19th example, now in the Musee du Quai Branly, Paris, has weft float motifs representing horses woven in silk on a hand spun cotton ground. It seems likely that this is an ancient technique in the region, although it may have spread up into northern Nigeria only in the early nineteenth century. These cloths are worn as insignia of office by members of a once powerful association of elders known as Oshugbo (or Ogboni). The Yoruba for weaving is hun. The Yoruba cloth were originally woven to serve as underwear and waist wrappers which were designed for hunting, farming and manual labours. (3) wipe clean with a damp cloth (4) The other main form of visual art is silk and cotton woven cloth with elaborate and subtle patterns and colors. Nupe: the Nupe live along the river Niger in central Nigeria, around their capital of Bida. Kente cloth originated in the Ashanti Kingdom (17th century AD), but it has its roots in a long tradition of weaving in … Cloth weaving (Aso-Oke) started centuries ago amongst the Yoruba’s but predominantly amongst the Iseyin’s (Oyo-State), Ede (Osun State) and Okene Kogi State. Renne, E. 1995. *A woman weaving Akwete cloth. See more ideas about african textiles, museum collection, aso oke. All you will need is to attach the threads to something stable like a table clamp, hook or doorknob. 5 out of 5 stars (296) 296 reviews. “Traditional Textiles in Owo, Nigeria” in African Arts 14 1987. Click here to view our Nigerian women’s cloths for sale. Cloth weaving (Aso-Oke) started centuries ago amongst the Yoruba’s but predominantly amongst the Iseyin’s (Oyo-State), Ede (Osun State) and Okene Kogi State. This paper covers Oyo and Ogun States of Nigeria with special reference to centers such as Ogbomosho, Oyo and Iseyin in Oyo State, and Owu-Ijebu in Ogun State of Nigeria. Aremu, P. 1982. Detail: Yoruba aso oke woman's wrapper cloth, circa 1900. rare mixed strip design, hand spun indigo dyed cotton and magenta silk. Features Yoruba cloth and clothes and other items of material culture in the collections of the Royal Albert Museum, Exeter. A late 19th century picture of an ashoke weaver, one of the earliest known photos of this production. Akwete: This small town just north of the city of Port Harcourt is one of the last centres of a once much wider tradition of Igbo women’s weaving. 1977. Afigbo, A. Photo by Duncan Clarke. At the top a strip of silk Asante kente. This long piece is then taken to a tailor who cuts it into pieces, sews it together, and sometimes hand embroiders it. Aso-Oke also called Ofi is a type of hand-made fabric usually done by weaving and this art of weaving and styling of this particular fabric material originated from the Yorubas (South-western people of Nigeria). (1) a cloth bag (2) English wool and cloth were exported for profit, and French wine imported for pleasure. Ofi refers to the seat of the weavers sit on when weaving the cloth. Okeke, C.S. There was however a large area extending from parts of Togo, across Benin and Nigeria into western Cameroon where women wove, using single heddle looms mounted upright against a house wall. Jun 29, 2017 - Aso oke is the strip woven cloth tradition of (until recently) male weavers in the Yoruba speaking region of South western Nigeria. Usually woven by men and women, the fabric is used to make men's gowns, called agbada and hats, called fila, as well as women's wrappers, called iro and head tie, called gele. Cloth is the Center of the World: Nigerian Textiles, Global Perspectives. “Akwete Weaving: Tradition and Change” in Engelbrecht, B. The cloth is made by weaving one forty foot or more four inch band of cloth. ... cast bronze figures from the ancient Yoruba site at Ife (12-15th Century A.D.) show royalty wearing cloth wrappers that may well have been woven on upright frame looms similar to the type Yoruba women weavers use today. Weaving in Southern Nigeria by Lisa Aronson Skidmore College. Back in the days, the Yoruba people had very big cotton farms. Ashoké (aso oke) is the most prestigious hand-woven cloth of the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria.The name literally means "top cloth". Picton J. In the years since the 1950s this kind of weaving has declined drastically in both the Yoruba and Igbo speaking regions of Nigeria, partly because it is an extremely slow and laborious process, but also because women now have wider opportunities for trading, education and other careers. The cloths were once traded along the coastal lagoons to the Niger delta region where they became known as ikakibite or “tortoise cloth” and highly prized in local rituals. Adire African Textiles is a London based gallery dedicated to exploring the vintage textile traditions of sub-Saharan Africa. Akwete women use a uniquely wide version of the loom, allowing a single width of cloth to form a women’s wrapper. Cloth as Metaphor Bands of weft float decoration representing designs such as crocodile, frog, elephant, and koran board, are alternated with bands of shaggy pile weave. The earliest known example of this type of cloth, in the Royal Scottish Museum, Edinburgh, dates from as early as 1790. From time immemorial, craftwork has been a source of livelihood for many Nigerians and this has encouraged archaeologists to explore more about the ancient Nigerian arts and crafts. Textiles of Africa Aside from the superb accounts of Bunu weaving by Renne there is little documentation of the wide variety of indigo cloths that were woven in this region. Textiles of Africa Find more Yoruba words at wordhippo.com! Aronson, L. 2001. Although these are largely traditions in decline (including in Okene in the past few years,) fine examples of older cloths can still be found, and where the weaving continues, as in Akwete, some very high quality new cloths are woven for local use. In central and northern Nigeria, where there has been less development, the picture is brighter. Aronson, L. 1989. While single pieces of ashoke are sometimes worn on a daily basis, complete ashoke outfits are worn during major ceremonies such as weddings, funerals, naming ceremonies and important religious festivals. The Yoruba silk was dyed with cochineal in North Africa and reached Nigeria by camel caravan across the Sahara until the trade ended around 1910. Aronson, L. 1992. “Aso Ipo: Red Funeral Cloth from Bunu” in African Arts 25 In the art traditions of pre-colonial Africa male and female roles were usually clearly defined. 36 x 14 Neutral Beige Yoruba Cloth Long Lumbar Pillow Cover - Vintage African Handwoven Fabric HeddleAndLamm. 1. 1980. Among the huge range of designs produced is a version of the Ijebu aso olona, which they have woven since at least the C19th for sale to the Ijaw people of the Niger Delta to the south. Nigeria; Yoruba (Ife) artist. Traditional attire for men is four-piece outfit, which consists of Sokoto (loosely fitted pants), Buba (top), Agbada (wide-sleeved robe), and Fila (hat). The picture below (taken in the 1960s) shows senior women from the royal family in a small village called Somorika wearing locally woven cloths, some of which mix hand spun cotton with white linen-like thread called “ebase” obtained from tree bark. Aso oke means "top cloth" in the English language, denoting cloth of high status. Nigerian Weaving The all silk strips with narrow float patterns in the weft are also a rare feature. In this aso oke fabric weaving factory, the blood is the fuel that propels the crocheting that gets the synthetic fibers woven together, to form fascinating patterns of aso oke fabric. The asymmetric layout on these warp striped cloths echoes that used on many two panel women's weave cloths. Cloth trade in the United Kingdom why not visit us at Alfie ’ s weaving Among North-east. 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